POT LIMIT OMAHA JEFF HWANG PDF

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Jeff Hwang is an expert blackjack player, a semi-professional poker player, and Indiana provided the impetus for Jeff's first book, Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The . Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume III: The Short-Handed Workbook, by Jeff Hwang, September Upcoming Titles. Winning Poker Tournaments One Hand. Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha: Small Ball and Short-Handed Play, by Jeff Hwang, June The World Poker Travel Guide, by Tanya Peck, January


Pot Limit Omaha Jeff Hwang Pdf

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In his book, Jeff Hwang advocated limping everything but the strongest hands, hoping to get pots multiway. He even advocates limping weak. Posts about Pot limit omaha poker by jeff hwang pdf written by anadengreenunhemitrefalcuvenpo. Pot-Limit. Omaha. Poker. THE BIG PLAY. STRATEGY. Jeff Hwang. LYLE. STUART. KENSINGTON PUBLISHING CORP. bestthing.info

In winkelwagen Op verlanglijstje. If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support? I like the discussion of hands played.

Gratis verzending vanaf 20 euro 30 dagen bedenktijd en gratis retourneren Ophalen bij een bol. Gunnar rated it it was ok Jun 04, This book will help you understand what the aggressive players are doing as well as to arm you with aggressive plays you can add to your arsenal.

Books by Jeff Hwang. Hwang actually addresses why a one-gapped rundown is better in certain situations than a rundown. Jeff rated it really liked it Feb 10, I only did read the omaha Hi part, but it was great. The flop comes 9 9 7, giving you trip nines with an ace kicker.

Generally speaking, you should tend to bet overtrips. You are dealt K Q T 4 on the button. The flop comes K Q 5, and your opponent checks. Top two pair should generally be bet. You are dealt J T 9 8 on the button.

The flop comes 8 7 4.

You cannot get check-raised off of top pair with a card nut wrap. The flop comes Q 6 3. In a mid-SPR situation, you should take the free card with the bare-flush draw. The cutoff now folds. With no money left to play, you cannot get check-raised off your draw. That said, you should bet and take a shot at winning the pot without a fight. You are dealt A K Q T on the button.

Answer: Sometimes check, sometimes bet. With top pair and a fistful of overcard draws to top two pair, you can comfortably check back the flop for pot control purposes.

Documents Similar To Tri Nguyen - The Pot-Limit Omaha Book - Transitioning From NLHE to PLO

But against a weak player, you should generally go ahead and bet it. Answer: Bet the pot. You have top pair in a low-SPR situation. The play is to bet the pot and commit if check-raised. As in situation 9, you have top pair with a fistful of overcard outs, and with the pre-flop initiative in a mid-SPR situation in contrast to situation 10 ; the only difference is that you 3-bet in this hand.

The overriding consideration is SPR, and not the fact that you 3-bet pre-flop.

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In other words, it would be a mistake to say that you should c-bet top pair when you 3-bet pre-flop, because the fact that you 3-bet is not the deciding factor. Only the big blind calls.

The flop comes J 5 3. Answer: Usually check, sometimes bet. You hit the pivot card, and have a backdoor diamond draw as well. That said, you should tend to check this. However, if your opponent is a weak player and rarely check-raises, you might venture a bet on this flop.

The flop comes K 7 2. You have no hand, no draw, and little prospect for improvement on a relatively dry board. The flop comes T 6 4. You hit the pivot card with backdoor hearts as well. Most of the time, you should check and take the free card.

But against a truly weak opponent, betting is OK. The flop comes A 8 4. This is a flop that offers some conflict, as you have top pair with a flush draw.

103 - Hwang - Advanced Pot-limit Omaha 3 - The Short-handed Workbook.pdf

The problem is that your flush draw is rather weak, and as a result, you may not be able to stand a check-raise. That said, you should tend to check back the flop and play pot-control, though you may still bet against weaker opponents. Our LAG loose-aggressive pre-flop playing approach encompasses three basic elements: 1. Attacking lone limpers in position, and to an extent 3. In other words, the basic elements are technically nothing we havent already talked about before. Our LAG approach does not so much represent a strategy in itself completely distinct from Small Ball, but rather a shift in emphasis from pot control to attack when playing against the blinds, when playing behind a limper, and when playing behind a pre-flop raiser.

Put differently, the difference is not in the starting hands that we play, but rather what we do with them when there is one limper or are no limpers in front of us. Our focus is still on playing short-handed pots heads up or three way with the positional advantage. Under Small Ball, we are already playing a wide variety of hands in position.

However, our Small Ball strategy allows for openlimping with a wide variety of hands from late position -- particularly the more marginal-and speculative-class hands -- where the positional advantage tends to trump the pre-flop initiative, and where we favor pot control and ease of play over aggression, the pre-flop initiative, and bloating pot size.

That said, the more comfortable you become playing with the pre-flop initiative, the wider the range of hands and the more often you will be able to comfortably bring it in for a raise. Doing so will allow you to: 1. Pick up the blinds more often without a fight. You cant win the blinds pre-flop by limping. The more often you open with a raise before the flop, the more blind money you can pick up without risking any more money.

Build the pot for value in a favorable situation where you have the positional advantage.

The consolation prize for those times when the blinds defend is that you will generally be in a favorable situation in which you have the positional advantage, and now there is more money in the pot than there would have been had you merely openlimped.

This is generally an advantage, unless raising pre-flop and taking the initiative causes you to make playing errors.

Tri Nguyen - The Pot-Limit Omaha Book - Transitioning From NLHE to PLO

Have the versatility to take advantage of your opponents any way you see fit, and the ability to tailor your play to both your opponents and your opponents stack sizes. Having the ability to play both with and without the pre-flop initiative gives you greater versatility to tailor your play to your opponents, and to your opponentsstack sizes as well.

It gives you the ability to changegears at will. Its important to note that playing a predominantly LAG pre-flop style does not preclude you from playing Small Ball, and vice versa. Playing LAG against the blinds does not mean that you cant flat call raises pre-flop in position; nor does it mean that you cant open limp with marginal or speculative hands -- especially dry big pairs.

The point to be made is that you dont mold your playing style to fit a label; you dont say I want to be a LAG player and then copy what LAG players do. Rather, labels such as LAG are meant to describe a general style of play, and not the other way around.

In other words, you develop your own style of play -- which may incorporate elements of both the Small Ball and LAG approaches, and perhaps more of one approach than the other -- and then you can classify the overall body of work.

In fact, if you truly become a complete player, you should not even be able to label your overall style as one thing or the other. You should be able to adjust your style of play to the situation and be able to vary your play between LAG and Small Ball as the situation dictates. Also note that playing a LAG style doesnt mean that you play LAG in every position, but rather when you are in late position, or when you are in the hijack and sometimes UTG in 6-handed play and the players behind you are fairly tight.

Because generally speaking, you dont want to spend a lot of time getting caught playing heads up out of position with sub-premium hands, no matter what you label your style of play. Consequently, when playing out of position, you still want to open with predominantly premium-class hands. That said, our goal here is to develop the skills needed to further open up your game and enable a more LAG-heavy style of play.

Lets take a look at our LAG approach before the flop. Opening Fire on the Blinds The first thing to note about starting hand considerations is that the set of playable starting hands under a LAG-heavy approach is identical to the set of playable starting hands under the Small Ball-heavy approach which in itself is an extension of the starting hands prescribed in Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy.

Again, the only real difference is what you do with those hands. And in this context, LAG simply means taking the pre-flop initiative, whereas Small Ball means playing without it.

In other words, we are already playing rather loosely under Small Ball; our LAG approach simply adds the aggression factor. When opening fire on the blinds -- the first and most basic element of our LAG approach -- you still want a hand that has big-pot potential.

Playing LAG does not mean that you throw all starting hand criteria out the window. Rather, your hand may or may not have some structural weakness like a gap, for example , but it should still have the potential to develop into a big-pot hand. All hands should be at least single-suited -- if you are on the button with Q-J-T-9 rainbow and everybody has folded to you, you should tend to avoid raising and bloating the pot, as this hand lacks real big-pot potential without having the benefit of a suit.

From the button, this means: - Premium-class hands. Any four-card rundown with a suit from A-K-Q-J down to , big double-pair hands with a suit, premium-plus AAhands, premium pairplus hands such as Q Q J T, suited-ace hands with rundowns such as A with a suited ace, etc.

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Speculative-class wrap hands with high-card strength, such as Q-J and Q-J-T-7; smaller pairplus wrap hands such as ; suited aces with connectors, such as A 9 8 2; suited aces with big pairs, such as A Q Q 4; and suited-aces, Broadway-wrap hands like A K J 3. In other words, you can bring it in for a raise with Q, but you should generally open limp with Any three cards with card nut wrap potential, at least single-suited.

In other words, you can open fire on the blinds with potentially your entire playing range with the exception of dry pairs.

With that list in mind, the tighter the blinds are, the wider your blind-stealing range should be. If the blinds are extremely tight, you might consider raising with virtually any hand you choose to play, with one caveat: You should generally avoid trying to steal the blinds with hands with dry pairs in them, such as J-J with a suit, Q-Q-T-7 with a suit, or K-K-J-2 with a suit, as you are likely going to be handicapped after the flop unless you flop a set.

Again, playing LAG doesnt mean that you have to raise with every hand you play.

If you are more comfortable openlimping with speculative wrap hands like with a suit or a marginal Small-Ball hand like J with a suit, then you can go ahead and openlimp with them. PLO Tip: You want a hand that may or may not have a structural weakness like a gap , but at least has legitimate potential to develop into a big-pot hand. All hands should be at least single-suited. PLO Tip: You should generally avoid raising with hands that you dont want to get 3-bet with, namely dry pairs.

Adjustments for the Cutoff Seat When everybody folds to you in the cutoff seat, you have another obstacle to overcome, and that is the player on the button. Generally speaking, you should tighten up a bit in the cutoff seat.

Ideally, youd like to have a really tight player on your left who rarely -- if ever -- calls raises pre-flop. This way, you effectively get to have the button twice, and therefore dont have to adjust your game much.

But if, instead, the player on your left is extremely loose and will call any pre-flop raise, you need to tighten up your blind-stealing requirements -- otherwise, you will often find yourself playing heads up out of position after the flop when the button calls your raise, but the blinds fold. In fact, with this type of player on your left, you can still open limp with a wide range, so long as the button doesnt raise much pre-flop, but you should avoid opening with a raise with most everything except the premium-class hands.

Now if, instead, you have a maniac on your left who raises and 3-bets pre-flop at every opportunity, then you have even more problems, as you can no longer figure on seeing the flop cheaply.

In that case, you need to tighten up considerably. You should also look to change seats, or otherwise find a different game From the Hijack Seat Clearly, you should tighten up more from the hijack seat.

PLO Tip: You want to avoid getting stuck playing pots heads up out of position, and especially with sub-premium hands. UTG Playing UTG six-handed, you should be playing reasonably tight, unless the players behind you are unbelievably tight, or are really just so weak after the flop that you just dont care. The Size of the Raise Generally speaking, when you are on the button and there is nobody else in the hand but the blinds, you should go ahead and bring it in for a full pot-sized raise.

However, if the blinds are extremely tight, but you have a hand like Q-J-T-9 doublesuited and you really want to see the flop, you might consider bringing it in for a minimum raise to encourage action. Not only is a pot-sized raise the most natural bet size in online play, it is the one that has the greatest chance of either picking up the blinds, isolating limpers, or otherwise resulting in a heads-up pot in position after the flop. In addition, a full pot-sized raise also maximizes the value of the positional advantage by building a bigger pot before the flop than a smaller raise would.

When playing out of position, you really need to consider the purpose of the raise. If you are opening fire on the blinds, then you should probably bring it in for the full raise.

If, on the other hand, the players behind you are fairly loose but you still want to juice the pot a little, you might consider bringing it in for a smaller raise to encourage the blinds to come in and create a multiway pot.

Consider the following two scenarios. Your actual hand is irrelevant. Assume that all opponents are competent, but not strong. In which situation would you be more likely to open with a raise? Situation A, or Situation B? In question 27, you have a nut gutshot with the nut flush draw.

Similarly, in question 28, the card nut wrap with a flush draw should bet. However, in question 29, the bare flush draw with some backdoor wrap possibilities should generally be checked back, though -- again -- betting isnt necessarily wrong.

In question 30, you hit a pivot card with the backdoor nut flush draw. Checking is the preferred play, though betting is not incorrect.

That said, with the same hand against a known weak player in question 31, you should go ahead and bet.

Again, betting isnt necessarily wrong, but checking behind is generally the correct play. Playing on the draw is covered in Chapter Five of the same book. In question 34, your opponent should be keenly aware of the possibility that you have a straight.

Checking is clearly incorrect, because your opponent is simply going to check behind if he has anything to show down; meanwhile, there arent any draws for him to have missed, so the likelihood is that he has something to show down.

What you need to do is create some doubt in your opponents mind.Rather, your hand may or may not have some structural weakness like a gap, for example , but it should still have the potential to develop into a big-pot hand. But if, instead, the player on your left is extremely loose and will call any pre-flop raise, you need to tighten up your blind-stealing requirements -- otherwise, you will often find yourself playing heads up out of position after the flop when the button calls your raise, but the blinds fold.

Ok, so maybe nobody and ever might be a little strong, but the point remains: It wouldnt take long for the gambler to figure out that this slot machine pays out every fifth spin, and only every fifth spin. That said, merely checking behind a lot on the flop carries little value unless you are also consistently blocking steal attempts on the turn - otherwise, you pretty much are just giving up the pot when you check back the flop. Small Ball.

103 - Hwang - Advanced Pot-limit Omaha 3 - The Short-handed Workbook.pdf

My opponent showed A-K-Q-5 with the nut club draw. We begin by applying the concept of variable-ratio reinforcement to continuation bet frequencies in Part I: C-Bet Frequency. The material in this book is the result of playing various Omaha games nearly exclusively for over eighteen months, both live and online.

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