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Note to Mirrorless Camera Owners: almost everything in this article is relevant not only to DSLR owners but also mirrorless camera owners too!
Master Shooting modes The best place to start is with shooting modes. Below, I have given each abbreviation for the given mode.
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When this is selected, you as the photographer set the aperture and the camera will automatically select the shutter speed. So what is aperture and when would you want to control it?
The aperture is the size of the opening in the lens through which light is allowed to pass whenever the shutter is opened — the larger the aperture, the more light passes through. Therefore, a larger aperture a wider opening has a smaller f-number e.
Reducing the aperture by one whole f-stop, e. Aperture is one of the most important aspects of photography as it directly influences the depth of field — that is, the amount of an image that is in focus.
A large depth of field achieved by using a small aperture large f-number would mean that a large distance within the scene is in focus, such as the foreground to the background of the landscape below. The shutter speed, measured in seconds or more often fractions of a second , is the amount of time the shutter stays open when taking a photograph.
The longer the shutter stays open, the more light passes through to the sensor to be captured. Further Reading: learn more about Shutter Priority Mode.
In program mode, you are able to set either the aperture or shutter speed, and the camera will maintain the correct exposure by adjusting the other one accordingly, i. This gives you additional freedom that using either aperture priority or shutter priority cannot give without switching between shooting modes. Manual M Manual mode is exactly what it sounds like, you are given full control over the exposure determination, setting both the aperture and shutter speed yourself. The term originated in film photography, where film of different sensitivities could be used depending on the shooting conditions, and it is no different in digital photography.
This will give you images of the highest quality, with very little grain or noise. A high ISO number, such as ISO , will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, effectively multiplying the small amount of available light to give you a correctly exposed image. This multiplication effect comes with a side effect of increased noise on the image, which looks like a fine grain, reducing the overall image quality. This image was taken as the sun was going down, meaning there was not much ambient light.
Outside on a sunny day, select ISO and see how it goes. If it clouds over, maybe select an ISO between If you move indoors, consider an ISO of around or above these are approximate starting points. Auto-ISO is a very useful tool when starting out with your camera, as it is allows you to define an upper limit i. They all control either the amount of light entering the camera aperture, shutter speed or the amount of light required by the camera ISO for a given exposure.
Therefore, they are all linked, and understanding the relationship between them is crucial to being able to take control of your camera. A change in one of the settings will impact the other two. Therefore, to balance the exposure, you could do the following: Situation 1: Reduce the shutter speed by a factor of 4, i.
Situation 2: Reduce the ISO by a factor of 4, i. Aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all facotrs that influence your exposure, and are all linked. They all have the net effect of reducing the amount of light by a factor of 4, countering the change in aperture.
Further Reading: Read more about the Exposure Triangle. Master Metering Through out all of the above discussion, I have said that the camera calculates the exposure depending on the amount of available light, but what is it actually doing? When taking a photograph, using any form of automatic exposure calculation e. This is known as metering, and it is the reason that if you point your camera at a bright white scene, such as after it has snowed, and take a photograph the resulting image will always appear darker than you or I see it.
Similarly, if you point your camera at a really dark scene, such as a low-lit room, and take a photograph the resulting image will always be brighter than you or I see it. The scene is always being averaged by the camera and most of the time that results in the image appearing to be correctly exposed.
However, you can control what areas of the scene are being assessed by the camera in order to influence the way in which the exposure is metered. Practically speaking: when starting out with your camera, either average or centre weighted metering are a good starting point. They will both provide a fairly consistent measure of the exposure required and, if you select one mode and stick with it, you will soon begin to understand when a scene will be under exposed i.
That is where exposure compensation comes in. It allows you to either increase or decrease the cameras default meter reading to account for the actual brightness of a scene.
A spring lamb leaping in front of a snowy hillside.
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Left: Straight out of camera, with the snow caught as grey. The bright snowy background caused my camera to underexpose this scene by nearly two stops, which could have been corrected by exposure compensation in camera. Learn About Focussing Regardless of what shooting mode you are using, or what ISO you define, the chances are there will be a subject of your image that you want to have in focus.
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The photographer largely is not dependent on costly lighting equipment, at least in object photography. So when using aperture priority, you can get complete control over your depth of field, whilst the camera takes care of the rest. It can be expected that this de velopment will proceed.
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Focus Points Both of those focus modes rely on what are known as focus points.