2SK1117 EBOOK DOWNLOAD

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Maximum Drain-Source On-State Resistance (Rds): Ohm. 2skpdf SizeK _no. 2SK TOSHIBA Field Effect Transistor Silicon N Channel MOS Type (?-MOSII.5) 2SK DC-DC Converter and Motor Drive Applications Unit: mm Low drain-source ON resistance: RDS (ON) = ?. 2SK Silicon N-Channel MOS FET Components datasheet pdf data sheet FREE from bestthing.info Datasheet (data sheet) search for integrated circuits. Page 1. Page 2.


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All MOSFET. 2SK1117 Datasheet

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Facebook gives people the power to. Get an immediate offer. View the profiles of people named Delfin Hueber. Any involuntary muscle contractions caused by a shock, while perhaps harmless in themselves, may cause collateral damage - there are many sharp edges inside this type of equipment as well as other electrically live parts you may contact accidentally.

The purpose of this set of guidelines is not to frighten you but rather to make you aware of the appropriate precautions. Repair of TVs, monitors, microwave ovens, and other consumer and industrial equipment can be both rewarding and economical.

Just be sure that it is also safe! Don't work alone - in the event of an emergency another person's presence may be essential. Always keep one hand in your pocket when anywhere around a powered line-connected or high voltage system.

Wear rubber bottom shoes or sneakers. Don't wear any jewelry or other articles that could accidentally contact circuitry and conduct current, or get caught in moving parts. Set up your work area away from possible grounds that you may accidentally contact. Know your equipment: TVs and monitors may use parts of the metal chassis as ground return yet the chassis may be electrically live with respect to the earth ground of the AC line.

Microwave ovens use the chassis as ground return for the high voltage. In addition, do not assume that the chassis is a suitable ground for your test equipment!

If circuit boards need to be removed from their mountings, put insulating material between the boards and anything they may short to. Hold them in place with string or electrical tape. Prop them up with insulation sticks - plastic or wood.

Monitor while discharging and verify that there is no residual charge with a suitable voltmeter. In a TV or monitor, if you are removing the high voltage connection to the CRT to replace the flyback transformer for example first discharge the CRT contact under the suction cup at the end of the fat HV wire.

Use a 1M to 10M ohm 5 W or greater wattage for its voltage holdoff capability, not power dissipation resistor on the end of an insulating stick or the probe of a high voltage meter.

Discharge to the metal frame which is connected to the outside of the CRT. An implosion will scatter shards of glass at high velocity in every direction. There are several tons of force attempting to crush the typical CRT.

While implosion is not really likely even with modest abuse, why take chances? However, the CRT neck is relatively thin and fragile and breaking it would be very embarrassing and costly. Always wear eye protection when working around the back side of a CRT. Use clip leads or solder temporary wires to reach cramped locations or difficult to access locations.

Clip the reference end of the meter or scope to the appropriate ground return so that you need to only probe with one hand. Perform as many tests as possible with power off and the equipment unplugged. For example, the semiconductors in the power supply section of a TV or monitor can be tested for short circuits with an ohmmeter.

Use an isolation transformer if there is any chance of contacting line connected circuits. A Variac tm is not an isolation transformer!

The use of a GFCI Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter protected outlet is a good idea but will not protect you from shock from many points in a line connected TV or monitor, or the high voltage side of a microwave oven, for example.

Note however, that, a GFCI may nuisanse trip at power-on or at other random times due to leakage paths like your scope probe ground or the highly capacitive or inductive input characteristics of line powered equipment.

A fuse or circuit breaker is too slow and insensitive to provide any protection for you or in many cases, your equipment. However, these devices may save your scope probe ground wire should you accidentally connect it to a live chassis. Don't attempt repair work when you are tired. Not only will you be more careless, but your primary diagnostic tool - deductive reasoning - will not be operating at full capacity.

Finally, never assume anything without checking it out for yourself! Don't take shortcuts! Apparently, without something - anything - to drain the charge resulting from the current flow due to residual gas ions inside the CRT, the shortest path may be through the glass neck of the tube to the yoke or from the pins outside the CRT to whatever is nearby.

There aren't many ions in a modern CRT but I suppose a few here, a few there, and eventually they add up to enough to cause a major disaster at least on some CRTs. This is probably not a problem on small CRTs but for large ones with high high voltages and high deflection angles where the glass of the neck is very thin to allow for maximum deflection sensitivity, the potential does exist for arcing through the glass to the yoke to occur, destroying the CRT.

This probably applies mostly to large direct-view TVs since they use high deflection angle CRTs but it won't hurt to take appropriate precautions with video and computer monitors as well.

Troubleshooting tips Many problems have simple solutions. Don't immediately assume that your problem is some combination of esoteric complex convoluted failures. For a TV, it may just be a bad connection or blown fuse.

Remember that the problems with the most catastrophic impact on operation like a dead TV usually have the simplest solutions. The kind of problems we would like to avoid at all costs are the ones that are intermittent or difficult to reproduce: the occasional interference or a TV that refuses to play 'StarTrek Voyager'.

If you get stuck, sleep on it. Sometimes, just letting the problem bounce around in your head will lead to a different more successful approach or solution.

Don't work when you are really tired - it is both dangerous especially with respect to TVs and mostly non-productive or possibly destructive. Whenever working on precision equipment, make copious notes and diagrams. You will be eternally grateful when the time comes to reassemble the unit. Most connectors are keyed against incorrect insertion or interchange of cables, but not always. Apparently identical screws may be of differing lengths or have slightly different thread types.

Little parts may fit in more than one place or orientation. Pill bottles, film canisters, and plastic ice cube trays come in handy for sorting and storing screws and other small parts after disassembly.

This is particularly true if you have repairs on multiple pieces of equipment under way simultaneously. Select a work area which is wide open, well lighted, and where dropped parts can be located - not on a deep pile shag rug. The best location will also be relatively dust free and allow you to suspend your troubleshooting to eat or sleep or think without having to pile everything into a cardboard box for storage.

When the set is unplugged, the tuner shield or other signal ground points should be safe and effective.

2SK1117 Toshiba N-channel pi-MOS II Field Effect Transistor Data Sheet

A basic set of precision hand tools will be all you need to disassemble a TV and perform most adjustments. These do not need to be really expensive but poor quality tools are worse than useless and can cause damage. Needed tools include a selection of Philips and straight blade screwdrivers, socket drivers, needlenose pliers, wire cutters, tweezers, and dental picks.

A set of plastic alignment tools will be useful for making adjustments to coils and RF transformers. A low power e. A higher power iron or small soldering gun will be needed for dealing with larger components. If in doubt, find someone else to do the soldering or at least practice, practice, practice, soldering and desoldering on a junk circuit board first! See the document: Troubleshooting and Repair of Consumer Electronic Equipment for additional info on soldering and rework techniques.

For thermal or warmup problems, a can of 'cold spray' or 'circuit chiller' they are the same and a heat gun or blow dryer come in handy to identify components whose characteristics may be drifting with temperature. Using the extension tube of the spray can or making a cardboard nozzle for the heat gun can provide very precise control of which components you are affecting. For info on useful chemicals, adhesives, and lubricants, see "Repair Briefs, an Introduction" as well as other documents available at this site.

Test equipment Don't start with the electronic test equipment, start with some analytical thinking. Your powers of observation and a little experience will make a good start.

Part Number Start With

Your built in senses and that stuff between your ears represents the most important test equipment you have. However, some test equipment will be needed: Multimeter DMM or VOM - This is essential for checking of power supply voltages and voltages on the pins of ICs or other components - service literature like the Sams' Photofacts described elsewhere in this document include voltage measurements at nearly every circuit tie point for properly functioning equipment.

The multimeter will also be used to check components like transistors, resistors, and capacitors for correct value and for shorts or opens. You do not need a fancy instrument. A basic DMM - as long as it is reliable - will suffice for most troubleshooting. If you want one that will last for many years, go with a Fluke.

However, even the mid range DMMs from Radio Shack have proven to be reliable and of acceptable accuracy. For some kinds of measurements - to deduce trends for example - an analog VOM is preferred though some DMMs have a bar graph scale which almost as good. Oscilloscope - While many problems can be dealt with using just a multimeter, a 'scope will be essential as you get more into advanced troubleshooting.

Basic requirements are: dual trace, MHz minimum vertical bandwidth, delayed sweep desirable but not essential. Higher vertical bandwidth is desirable but most consumer electronics work can be done with a 10 MHz scope.

A storage scope or digital scope might be desirable for certain tasks but is by no means essential for basic troubleshooting. You will usually get more scope for your money and these things last almost forever. It has a dual channel 50 MHz vertical plugin and a delayed sweep horizontal plugin.

I have now acquired a Tek B and that's what I use mostly these days. The HP is still fine but I couldn't pass up a really good deal. RF sources include a pair of rabbit ears or an outdoor antenna, a cable connection, or a VCR with a working RF modulator. This will be more convenient than an antenna connection and will permit you to control the program material. In fact, making some test tapes using a camcorder or video camera to record static test patterns will allow you full control of what is being displayed and for how long.

This is a useful piece of equipment if you are doing a lot of TV or monitor repair and need to perform CRT convergence and chroma adjustments. However, there are alternatives that are almost as good: a VHS recording of these test patterns will work for TVs. Incredibly Handy widgets These are the little gadgets and homemade testers that are useful for many repair situations. Here are just a few of the most basic: Series light bulb for current limiting during the testing of TVs, monitors, switching power supplies, audio power amplifiers, etc.

I built a dual outlet box with the outlets wired in series so that a lamp can be plugged into one outlet and the device under test into the other. For added versatility, add a regular outlet and 'kill' switch using a quad box instead. The use of a series load will prevent your expensive replacement part like a horizontal output transistor from blowing if there is still some fault in the circuit you have failed to locate. A Variac. It doesn't need to be large - a 2 A Variac mounted with a switch, outlet and fuse will suffice for most tasks.

However, a 5 amp or larger Variac is desirable.

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By varying the line voltage, not only can you bring up a newly repaired TV gradually to make sure there are no problems but you can also evaluate behavior at low and high line voltage. This can greatly aid in troubleshooting power supply problems. Warning: a Variac is not an isolation transformer and does not help with respect to safety. You need an isolation transformer as well. Isolation transformer.

This is very important for safely working on live chassis equipment. Since all modern TVs use a line connected power supply, it is essential. You can build one from a pair of similar power transformers back-to-back with their highest rated secondaries connected together. I built mine from a couple of similar old tube type TV power transformers mounted on a board with an outlet box including a fuse. Their high voltage windings were connected together.

The unused low voltage windings can be put in series with the primary or output windings to adjust voltage.

Variable isolation transformer. You don't need to download a fancy combination unit. A Variac can be followed by a normal isolation transformer. The opposite order also works. There may be some subtle differences in load capacity. The magnetic field it produces may cause the picture to wiggle or the colors to become messed up - and you to think there is an additional problem!

Degaussing coil. Make or download. The internal degaussing coil salvaged from a defunct TV doubled over to half it original diameter to increase its strength in series with a W light bulb for current limiting will work just fine. Also, see the section: Degaussing demagnetizing a CRT.

Safe discharging of capacitors in TVs and video monitors It is essential - for your safety and to prevent damage to the device under test as well as your test equipment - that large or high voltage capacitors be fully discharged before measurements are made, soldering is attempted, or the circuitry is touched in any way.

Some of the large filter capacitors commonly found in line operated equipment store a potentially lethal charge. This doesn't mean that every one of the capacitors in your TV need to be discharged every time you power off and want to make a measurement.Since all modern TVs use a line connected power supply, it is essential.

Selecting the wrong one - even momentarily connecting to it - can ruin your whole day. Safe discharging of capacitors in TVs and video monitors It is essential - for your safety and to prevent damage to the device under test as well as your test equipment - that large or high voltage capacitors be fully discharged before measurements are made, soldering is attempted, or the circuitry is touched in any way.

Download as PDF,. To improve this, the load should If you want one that will last for many years, go with a Fluke. For a TV, it may just be a bad connection or blown fuse. There could still be a problem with the power circuits but it will probably not result in an immediate catastrophic failure.

The series light bulb trick When powering up a TV or any other modern electronic devices with expensive power semiconductors that has had work done on any power circuits, it is desirable to minimize the chance of blowing your newly installed parts should there still be a fault.

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