FURNITURE MAKING EBOOK

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Download free educational books about furniture making, cabinet making, furniture design, upholstery, etc. - Collection of public domain books. CABINETWORK. Editorial Reviews. About the Author. Michael Crow is the author of Building Classic Arts and download Mid-Century Modern Furniture: Shop Drawings & Techniques for Making 29 Projects: Read 33 Books Reviews - bestthing.info download a site site eBooks site Unlimited Prime Reading Best Sellers & More site Book. Editorial Reviews. From Booklist. The second installment in this planned three- volume guide download a site site eBooks site Unlimited Prime Reading Best Sellers & More site . A former senior editor of American Woodworker magazine, Rae currently works in Asheville,North Carolina, making furniture as well as.


Furniture Making Ebook

Author:BERTRAM VARQUEZ
Language:English, Dutch, Hindi
Country:El Salvador
Genre:Religion
Pages:401
Published (Last):11.11.2015
ISBN:712-6-42251-168-8
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Confira também os eBooks mais vendidos, lançamentos e livros digitais Mid- Century Modern Furniture: Shop Drawings & Techniques for Making 29 Projects ( . Mission Furniture: How to Make It, Part 1 by H. H. Windsor. No cover available. Download; Bibrec Download This eBook. Ebook `The carpenters, joiners, cabinet makers, and gilders' companion: containing rules and instructions in the art of carpentry, joining, cabinet making, and.

Inasmuch as the width of the front of the chair exceeds that of the back by 2 in. This will necessitate the use of the bevel in laying off the shoulders of the tenons. Assemble the back, then the front; and when the glue on them has dried, put the side rails in place, then the arms. The chair should now be scraped and sandpapered preparatory to applying the finish. The cushion shown in the picture is made of Spanish roan skin leather and is filled with elastic felt.

Such cushions can be downloadd at the upholsterer's [Pg 18] or they can be made by the craftsman himself. Frequently the two parts of the cushion are laced together by means of leather thongs. With the exception of the back-legs the stock bill which follows gives the thicknesses and widths exact.

To the length, however, enough has been added to allow squaring up the ends. Plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for a design such as this. Begin work by squaring up the ends of the front posts and shaping the rear ones Chamfer the ends of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they shall not splinter through usage.

Next lay out the mortises and tenons. The curved horizontals for the back should now be prepared and steamed as described on another page.

Mission Furniture: How to Make It, Part 1 by H. H. Windsor

The curved form to which the steamed piece is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved slightly more than is wanted in the piece, as the piece when released will tend to straighten a little. The arms of the chair may be shaped while these pieces are drying on the forms. The rails of the [Pg 19] front and back may be tenoned, too.

It should be noted that the front of the chair is wider than the back. This will necessitate care in mortising and tenoning the side rails so as to get good fits for the shoulders The bevel square will be needed in laying out the shoulders of the tenons.

When the glue has hardened on these parts so that the clamps may be removed, put in the side rails or horizontals [Pg 21] and again adjust the clamps. The arms are to be fastened to the posts with dowels and glue. The seat, it will be seen from the drawing, is to be a loose leather cushion to rest upon slats. These seat slats may be fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the inside of the front and back seat rails or they may be "let in" to these rails by grooving their inner surfaces before the rails have been put in place.

The latter method is more workmanlike, but more difficult. A cushion such as is shown can be downloadd ready made up, or it may be made by the amateur by lacing together two pieces of Spanish leather cut to size and punched along the edges so as to allow a lacing of leather thong.

It may be filled with hair or elastic felt such as upholsterers use. Probably the simplest finish that can be used is weathered oak. Put on a coat of weather oak oil stain, sandpaper lightly when dry and then put on a very thin coat of shellac.

Sand this lightly and follow with two or more coats of floor wax put on in very thin coatings and polished well.

The dimensions may be changed to suit the wall space. The parts are held together entirely by keys.

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The bar across the front is for keeping the plates from falling out, but this may be left out if the plates are allowed to lean against the wall. The following list of material will be needed, and, [Pg 22] if the builder does not care to do the rough work, the stock can be ordered planed, sanded and cut to the exact size of the dimensions given.

Scrap pieces will do. Lay out and cut the mortises on the end pieces for the tenons of the shelf, also the tenons on the top ends and the diamond shaped openings. In laying these out, work from the back edge of the pieces. Cut the tenons on the ends of the shelf to fit the mortises in the end pieces, numbering each one so the parts can be put together with the tenons in the proper mortises. Mark out and cut the mortises in the top to receive the tenons on the end pieces. Parts Held Together by Keys In laying out the mortises for the keys allow a little extra on the side toward the shoulder so the ends and tops may be drawn up tightly when the keys are [Pg 23] driven in the mortises.

All the mortises and diamond shaped openings should be marked and cut with a chisel from both sides of the board. If the bar is used, it may be attached with a flat side or edge out as shown. Details of Plate Rack Finish the pieces separately with any weathered or fumed oak stain. When thoroughly dry, apply a very thin coat of shellac. Finish with two coats of wax. The rack can be attached to the wall by two mirror plates fastened on the back edges of the end pieces.

The tool is placed between the pieces that are to be joined, as shown in Fig. The small pin will mark the point for the bit in both pieces exactly opposite. Its small size permits it to be set anywhere in a room without being in the way. Quarter-sawed oak should be used in its construction, and the following pieces will be needed: 4 legs, 2 by 2 by 29 in.

If you are convenient to a planing mill you can secure these pieces ready cut to length, squared and sanded. This will save you considerable labor. The four legs are finished on all sides and chamfered at the bottom to prevent the corners from splitting. Care should be taken to make these a perfect fit. Table Complete The shelf should be finished on the top side and the four edges, and the corners cut out to fit the mortises in the table legs.

An enlarged view of this joint is shown in the sketch. The top board may have to be made of two 9-in. It should be finished on the top side and the edges. The edges can be beveled if desired. The board is fastened to the legs by means of screws through four small brass angles. These angles can be made or they can be downloadd at any hardware store. These slats should be finished on all sides. The table is now ready to be assembled and glued together.

The glue should dry at least 24 hours before the clamps are removed. After the glue is dry, carefully go over the entire table with fine sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.

It can now be finished in any one of the mission stains which are supplied by the trade for this purpose. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use, and it is also the easiest to obtain.

First bevel the ends of the corner posts and the slats, as shown, and finish them with [Pg 28] sandpaper.

Bore the holes in the posts and the railing for the dowel pins. When this is done the parts can be glued together and laid aside to dry. The four blocks 1 in. Bore holes through these blocks and the corners of the bottom board for the large screws to go through. Fasten them together by running the screws through the blocks, and the board into the ends of the corner posts as shown in the sketch. They should be evenly spaced on the four sides. This completes the basket except for the finish.

This can be any one of the many finishes supplied by the trade for this purpose. The thicknesses of all the pieces are specified. On the legs the widths, too, are specified. Quarter-sawed white oak is the best wood to use, and it should be well seasoned and clear of shakes and other imperfections. Having done this, lay out the tenons on the lower rails so as to have the required distances between the shoulders, and then cut them. Now cut the parts to [Pg 31] be worked into the frames that support the drawer and bottom of the case, and glue them properly.

While this is drying, the other parts of the case may be laid out and shaped. It is intended that the sides of the case shall splice on the edge of the bottom of the pigeon hole case.

In this manner the side shelves will cover the joint on either end. The back may be made up into one solid piece. Writing Desk Complete The shelves at the ends of the desk should be fastened after the frame is put together and before [Pg 32] the bottom of the case for the pigeon holes is fitted and fastened. In so doing the shelves may be fastened from the inside of the case. The angles of the braces are deg.

It will be noted that the edges of the lid are rabbeted. Another way is to have the lid large enough to fit entirely over the sides of the case and change the slope to correspond. The drawers may be made next. The fronts should be of oak, but the other parts of yellow poplar. An examination of an ordinary drawer will show the manner of construction.

The drawing shows an arrangement entirely independent of the sides of the desk so that the frame can be made and slipped in place after the finish has been put on. Two drawers are shown. These are faced front and back alike so as to secure as much room in the drawer as possible. In the finishing, the poplar wood should be finished with white shellac in the natural light color of the wood.

For the oak parts the following is appropriate for this design: Apply one coat of green Flemish water stain. When this has dried, sandpaper lightly until the raised grain has been removed, and apply another coat of stain diluted one-half with water. When dry, sand lightly and apply a very thin coat of shellac. Sand lightly and apply a coat of dark filler, natural filler colored with lamp-black, according to the somberness of the finish desired.

Upon this put a coat of orange shellac. After this, put on two coats of a good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with curled hair or haircloth and the last with pulverized pumice stone and raw linseed oil or crude oil. These substitutes for leather last fully as long and the difference can only be detected by an expert.

White oak will give the best results except for the frames or slats on which the cushions rest and these may be made of poplar or pine.

If a mill or woodworking shop of any kind is handy, the hardest part of the work can be saved by securing the following list of material, cut, planed, sanded and squared up to the exact sizes given: 2 posts, 3 in. The last piece on the list when sawed diagonal makes the two slanting pieces at the head of the couch. First be sure the legs are perfectly square, the two short ones and the two long ones of equal length respectively.

Either chamfer or round the upper ends as desired, chisel and plane the taper on the lower ends. Lay out and cut all the tenons on the rails—1 in. Arrange the posts and rails in the positions they are to occupy in the [Pg 34] finished couch.

Number each tenon and the place its corresponding mortise is to be cut in the post. Mark each mortise directly from the tenon which is to fit into it, taking care to have all the rails an equal distance from the floor. Bore and chisel out all mortises and see that all the rails fit perfectly, before proceeding with the work.

Couch Complete The next step will be to fit in the slanting side pieces at the head of the couch. The whole couch should fit together perfectly before gluing any of the parts. Glue the end parts together first.

Hot glue will hold best if the room and lumber are warm; if these cannot be had, use cold glue. After the ends have set for at least 24 hours, glue in place the side rails and slanting head pieces. Screw in place the corner braces. Be sure when making these braces to have the grain running diagonally across the corner, or the brace will be weak, also, be sure the sides are square with the ends; this may be determined by measuring the diagonals to find if they are equal.

This material may be of pine or poplar. These pieces are made into two frames as shown in the drawing and held together with long screws or nails.

Fasten with glue and screw short blocks on the inside of the couch rails for holding the two frames in place. You need to know who came to your website from where, and whether the download leads them to other pages or to sample your product. By using AdEspresso, you can get the code for the conversion pixel easily.

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Encyclopedia of Furniture Making [Download] Full Ebook

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Amazingly willow crafting does not require woodwork skills. The popular format for publishing e-books changed from plain text to HTML. While this is drying, the other parts of the case may be laid out and shaped. This survey found significant barriers to conducting interlibrary loan for e-books.

JOSETTE from Wilmington
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